Manuela: Salon Series In The Garden
The Hauser & Wirth and Manuela compound is one of the few places in Downtown that unifies highbrow elegance with lowbrow charm, establishing an air of surprise — just like a well-maintained unibrow. It’s a sprawling space where the aesthete can dine on buttered biscuits and chilaquiles, parents can sip seasonal cocktails within a graffiti-covered herb garden, and their designer-wearing toddler can admire live chickens. The art gallery and restaurant has created an atmosphere where all cultural enthusiasts can truly connect through art, cuisine, and community.
The newest experience they’ve added to the roster is their Salon Series in the Garden. A few times a year, patrons are invited to feast on shared plates, listen to a panel of experts, and discuss amongst strangers various themes ranging from urban ecology to natural wines. For intellects, it’s a form of expression. For introverts, it’s the ultimate challenge. For everyone else, it’s an evening worth having.
On a crisp October evening, we had the opportunity to dine in Manuela’s garden under string lights and on top of reclaimed furniture. It was a scene straight out of a rustic wedding reception featuring all of the thoughtful details without any rhythmless dancing. The night’s particular topic focused on artist Dorothy Iannone’s sexually charged masterpiece, ‘A Cookbook,’ featuring traditional recipes juxtaposed with eroticism: “Do you like my red snapper?” The suggestive quote was taken straight out of the cookbook and nonchalantly recited by Evan Kleiman, host of KCRW’s “Good Food” radio show. By her side were artist, Ben Kinmont, and curator, Laura Fried, as all three engaged in a volley of dialogue dissecting the life and intent behind Dorothy Iannone’s choice of words, pictures, and recipes. It was like listening to a podcast, only this time, we could assign faces to the non-threatening, made-for-podcasting voices.
Throughout the evening, we were served a multi-course meal with recipes taken from the cookbook and prepared by Executive Chef Kris Tominaga. He took a step back from Manuela’s usual menu which features Southern-inspired fare highlighting local ingredients to prepare chagiki, chicken liver pâté, baked trout meunière, and Tunisian couscous. Each dish was meant to be shared but large enough to go for seconds, or even thirds. One standout dish was the chicken liver pâté and it’s silky, mousse-like consistency topped with shaved truffle and served with seeded bread so soft and squishy it would have made the gluten-free community run for their lives. For dessert, the entire dinner table was unprepared for the arrival of Zuppa Inglese; the collective gasp was louder than the reaction to Iannone’s “red snapper” punchline. The Italian layered dessert featured custard, chocolate pudding, fresh fruit, and delicate cookies served in a glass pot akin to the size of a potted house plant.
Keep your eye out for Maneula’s next Salon Series In The Garden event. Tickets range from $60–$70 per person and include a welcome drink, family-style dinner, and an evening of conversation.
manuela-la.com | 901 East 3rd Street
Written by Janica de Guzman | Photography by Jack Strutz
