Josef Centeno: His Legacy In The Age of COVID
The business of restaurateurs involves leaving a mark on the culinary world; it’s an ambitious goal only the best will ever accomplish. If DTLA has proven to be a part of that world- Josef Centeno has certainly built his legacy here.
The intersection of 4th and Main is nicknamed “Centeno Square” among those who have had the pleasure of dining at any of Chef Josef’s many endeavors. From local patrons and tourists to food critics and even Michelin guides - his cuisines are well-known. When the DTLA renaissance was beginning, Chef Josef was a pioneer of the movement when he brought some much needed culinary presence to the Historic Core.
In February 2020, Josef was nominated for a James Beard Award, arguably the most prestigious culinary awards in the country. His Asian-fusion gem Orsa and Winston was awarded a Michelin star in 2019, and Bar Ama’s queso has been famed as one of the best in the world by multiple publications. However, none that made Josef’s restaurants immune to what has been plaguing restaurants when COVID-19 hit the world.
Tough decisions had to be made, and in Chef Josef’s case, that meant closing down iconic Baco Mercat, and his Culver City local favorite Amá•cita (both only two weeks apart), “Independent bars and restaurants of a certain size and serving ambitious food (which costs a lot labor-wise and ingredient-wise to prepare)—are probably having the hardest time.” says Chef Josef.
Photos by Gari Askew
Despite two closures, Chef Josef is not one to give up so easily; it’s not in his blood.
Born in San Antonio, as a kid he was submerged in authentic Tex-Mex culture and cuisine, usually immersing himself in culinary books. Once he left the Lone Star State for the CIA (Culinary Institute of Art) in New York, he experienced all the culture and cuisines represented in those books he read. Eventually, that would also inspire him to write his own. “Learning about and respecting the way different cultures approach flavor and use of seasonings and spices and techniques—that has resonated with me. Especially because I come from a big multicultural family.”
Josef’s experience isn’t a rags to riches story, it’s a rags to enriching story, as he has enriched all of DTLA with his cuisine, and doesn’t plan to stop. In the last five months, Josef has been developing Prospect Pine. “It is my cut-and-sew all-natural dyed clothing and general goods line,” he said. “I’ve taken my hobby and therapy of designing/natural dyeing clothes and other goods,” he explained.
As for his culinary endeavors, Josef is going to keep fighting for Bar Ama, Orsa and Winston, and the staff that has been by his side from the very beginning. As a word of advice to his fellow restaurateurs going through these COVID pains, he said “stay strong, be persistent, and plan to work really hard for a lot less. The road ahead is not going to be easy and likely going to be much more difficult, but chefs are the hardest-working and most determined people I know because we already had to be that way in this business. It’s what will get us to the other side.”
Written by Mariana Ramos | Photography by GL Askew II
Follow Josef at www.instagram.com/chefjosefcenteno
