Pearl River Deli: Far East Gem
Though dilapidated and rugged Chinatown may often seem, and whether COVID-19 or community disinvestment is to blame, there’s a shiny new spot that sticks out like a slick loner in the Far East Plaza. Catering to a with it crowd, the Pearl River Deli has pitch-black branding and soft pink walls that couple conspicuously with loud overhead lighting. Barely noticeable but attention-grabbing, like the weird punk rock kid at school.
It was back in February - the good old days when COVID-19 was just another panic attack gone viral - that Johnny Lee, Owner and Chef of Pearl River Deli, had taken over the space as a convenient opportunity to do more business during the Chinese New Year. “The landlord offered us the Baohaus space as a temporary setup. We stayed in the space ever since...our entire business existence has been during the pandemic.”
Like most food spots that go viral these days, it was through good reviews on Yelp and mouth watering pics via Instagram that garnered Lee his traction. A local blogger dubbed him the “Prince of Poultry,” due to his cooking at least 1000 chickens a month.
Part of the reason for this success is undoubtedly his superb staff, who he calls, “irreplaceable.” Some began working with Lee when it was all just a pop-up, but others have joined to help feed a growing base of customers yearning for his edgy twist on Cantonese-Chinese cuisines. “I like to think we share a common desire to create a business that strives to break free of the outdated mold of the pre-pandemic restaurant world.”
But when this era of ever-changing capacity limits and nightly curfews (a stricter one has just been enforced) finally comes to an end, and restaurants can return to that lucrative thing called stability, what does Lee see for a dream that has only known this era? “My hope is that after the pandemic ends,” he said, “we can focus on starting a more refined dining experience.”
Lee’s ambitions are a humbling perspective, as he wishes to grow sustainably within Chinatown. “It will help with the long term survival of the business,” Lee said. He isn’t too worried about the future of Pearl River, and that in itself is promising vigilance for a community so devastated by the lock-downs.
The deli has plans to keep its special Hainan Chicken weekends on a rotating basis, and prepare new Asian-inspired cuisines on non-Hainan weekends. Eventually, there will be more intricate dining experiences, like gourmet dishes serving clay pot rice.
To get a load of this fast-paced dining experience, visit Chef Johnny Lee at the Pearl River Deli from Tuesdays through Sundays, 10AM to 8PM. Insider’s tip: try visiting on two particular days - Tuesdays & Wednesdays. Apparently, Lee and his diligent staff deal with a more manageable crowd those days.
Written by Daniel Nieblas | Photographed by Rebekah Lemire
